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La Ruta de las Conquistadores
Day One: Pacific to the Jungle
17 NOV 2000

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"Eso! Eso!" Racers receive cheers from children in Catholic school uniforms, friends at rest areas and staff in cars as the bikes climb ever so slowly toward the clouds of this spectacular canopy forest. La Ruta is underway, the riders are in good spirits and — best of all — this end of the rainy season is thus far dry today.

Later, the chattering of English and Spanish mixes with the clattering of tired bikes and the sight of medical staff administering IVs at the finish of La Ruta's first stage. It's a warm Friday midafternoon and all the top riders have finished their first day of racing, rested in the tall grass and — if they could sit up straight — eaten a lunch of arroz, spaghetti, ensalada and Gatorade.

...one of these monsters scored a fisherman the other day when he went to retrieve his line from the polluted river....

Aboard the MountainZone.com mobile internet command center (a minivan with cigarette-lighter adapter blazing), all can be seen of the carnage that is stage one of La Ruta. SUVs are parked all around the finish line, while medical personnel attend to exhausted and dehydrated riders and organizers prepare to move the race to tomorrow's location. One surprising thing is just how chipper many of the top riders are — while stragglers are treated to a long rest and a cool drink.

Time is against riders in La Ruta, as competitors must be off the course by sundown. "We used to let riders keep going in years past," a staffer tells me. "But then they'd wander into the finish at like 10 at night in the middle of a fog." So this year's motto may be keep up or get off the course.

Nearly 200 riders began Friday's first stage, as the race struck out of a scenic coastal resort on the Pacific side of Costa Rica near Punta Leona. Three am wake-up calls went out to everyone, breakfast was served at four, and the race officially began at 5am. With a hoot and a holler all riders headed for the hills. The MountainZone.com staff gathered our cameras and jumped in the back of pickup trucks — driven by insane locals whose one mission was to pass all riders on the steepest section of the mountain trail.

Of the large field, we were told that 80 racers hailed from North America (mostly from the US). Colorado is definitely in the house this weekend, many riders deciding to set a course for adventure and see how this race stacks up to their high-altitude events. Many of them ran into each other in the airport, and they've formed a very informal team going up against the seemingly unbeatable Costa Ricans.

Two ladies from Colorado were ruling the women's field, serving notice that the American women came to ride....

Well into the race (at 7:00am), riders were grinding up the first of many ridiculous hills, their spirits as high as their blood sugar levels. That would soon change, but for now the long string of riders wound their way up dark forested passes, gaining 3,000 feet of elevation before quickly losing it all on even more ridiculous descents.

Fifteen enormous crocodiles basked in the warm tropical sun as the race progressed nearby, our guide telling us how one of these monsters scored a fisherman the other day when he went to retrieve his line from the polluted river, flowing from the capital city of San Jose. We were impressed and quickly scampered back into the 4x4, rejoining the race and being duly impressed by the many fields of sugar cane, papaya and coconut trees and various wildlife slithering around the tall grass.

With three major mountain chains running lengthwise through the country, riders will have plenty of climbing and descending as they work their way from Pacific to Caribbean. Volcanoes, fertile valleys and dense rainforest between have already wreaked havoc on bikes and bodies — and we only crossed one of the ranges.

Riders and bikes continued their slow climbs and high-flying descents throughout the morning, as a local 24-year-old Costa Rican rider took a commanding lead over his countrymen and any other male challengers. Two ladies from Colorado were ruling the women's field, serving notice that the American women came to ride.

One of them, Christina Beggy, finished 2nd in her class and was impressed with the course when we caught up with the Handlebar and Grill team at the finish line. "It's awesome!" she said as she wiped the red clay off her legs. Asked if she believes this to be the world's toughest mountain bike race she paused and said, "I don't know — Montezuma's Revenge is pretty tough. I'll have to wait until this is over to decide. But it's definitely tough."

Friday evening saw the circus relax for the night, as the production moved to two hotels downtown before embarking on Saturday's next stage. Racing starts at 6am, going from San Jose to Turrialba, two thirds of the way to the finish and several mountains from the finish in Limon on the Caribbean side of the country. But riders won't be there until Sunday, so check back often for more updates from La Ruta.

– Ari Cheren, "El Gringo Loco," for MountainZone.com

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