Relaxing in the hot springs Photo by Nathan Ward

After giving up on mule trails, we adopted a new tactic of riding from oasis to oasis. Leaving San Javier early in the morning, we pedaled south along the main road from the village. The road isn’t paved, in fact it’s a dusty track full of rocks and sand that passes flower-strewn ranchos, dry stream beds and winds into the hills. Our only map was a simple hand-drawn affair so we had only a vague idea where to go. We turned east at la Mesa Santo Domingo and followed a brackish creek high into the Giganta.

Arroyos split the dry mountain landscape, offering water and lush green environments. This backroad cut through an amazing cardón forest thick as pines on the mountains of Colorado. The higher we rode, the more the vegetation exploded into a sea of palm trees where the creek flowed and hundreds of tiny frogs hopped along the shore. In these green areas we came across settlements where ranchers wrestled a living from this difficult land.

The ride back to San Javier taught us even more about riding in Baja. After just 37 miles our bikes were dry as a bone and sounded like the metal was grinding away each pedal stroke. The ride completely drained us, even a cloudy cool day. If we attempted this ride on a sunny day, Baja would have undoubtedly taught us a more severe lesson. As Brad clearly pointed out, "Sometimes Baja seems like nothing but dry and dusty roads."

Touring the backroads of Baja with a full trailer or panniers is very possible. However, it will take a toll on body and equipment unless you bite it off in small pieces and keep your distances reasonable.

The next day we packed our gear and pedaled over the "great divide" to the brake-smoking descent back to Loreto. In Loreto we met Fernando, one of Trudi’s guides and a local mountain bike racer, who showed us the singletrack near town. Finally, perfect trails made by mountain bikers that swept along the ridgelines, descended into steep arroyos and took advantage of the landscape there above the sea. It was some of the best singletrack I’ve ridden anywhere and the perfect way to end our trip.

Before heading to Baja I harbored reservations about traveling to a place so close to the U.S., sure that thirty years of American tourism would have created an ugly monster. I was very happy to find that Loreto is nothing like the condo-littered beach party areas of southern Baja, it’s quiet and laid back. Muy tranquilo.

However, despite its tranquilo flavor, an ugly American scene exists at times with guys running around wearing t-shirts that read "Women want me. Fish fear me." Also, while we sat on the steps of our hotel, we witnessed one man screaming at the local Mexicans because he didn’t get a free taco at the hotel’s happy hour. He suggested they’d all listen better when he returned and held a gun to their head. This is obviously not the way we need to be representing our country abroad.

What impressed me about Baja was the unwavering friendliness of the Mexican people everywhere we went, despite the long years of tourism. Everyone we met was open, friendly, giving and laughed loud at all the funny things going on around us. It was refreshing to travel in this atmosphere, especially since I hadn’t expected to find it so close to home.

Nuts and Bolts: Baja

Bicycle Touring in Baja: Baja is divided into two states, Baja California and Baja California Sur. Highway 1 goes all the way from Tijuana to Cabo San Lucas, paved the entire way. Drivers are courteous but there is no shoulder and many big trucks. Dirt roads crisscross the peninsula and are well-suited to mountain bikes, though the roads are rough and steep.

What to Bring: Unless you stay on paved roads, mountain bikes are the best choice. Make sure your equipment is durable and carry the tools/spares to make any sort of repair. Brings lots of lube to keep the drivetrain running smoothly in a sea of dust. We used a 100oz water bladder and two 22oz water bottles each and still ran out of water on some rides. The more water the better.

Tour Baja has both good quality rental bikes and support vehicles with mechanics on their tours.

Dress is casual and the desert nights in the mountains can get chilly.

When to Go: The best months for touring are November through March because it’s cooler. Summer is not the time to go because it is deadly hot, unless you like that sort of thing.

How to Get There: There are daily flights from Los Angeles to Loreto. Most airlines in the US will gouge you for taking your bicycle on board, but the Mexican airlines usually let it pass as just another piece of luggage.

You can also drive there on Highway 1. You must have Mexican Auto Insurance that is usually available at the border - make sure you check beforehand because you’ll pay dearly if you don’t have the correct insurance.

Local Information: Trudi Angell runs bike tours and bike/sea kayak combo tours out of Loreto. She can give you advice on riding and tell you the history and legends of the entire area. Email: info@tourbaja.com or Telephone: 800.398.6200.

Health Considerations: If you have any doubt about the water, treat it. There is a water purification station in Loreto to fill your bottles. Drink enough to stay hydrated and consider bringing an electrolyte replacement drink to replenish your body after profuse sweating. If you plan to ride the trails, bring tweezers to pick out thorns and a snake bite kit/compression bandage. Know how to use them.

Visas: US citizens do not need a visa, just a tourist card that you can get when you get there. Bring a copy of a birth certificate and a driver’s license, or a passport for identification.

By Nathan Ward